This morning we were heading out for Chimi Lhakhang, the Divine Madman’s fertility temple. To get there we had short walk starting in the village of Sopsokha and through Teoprongchu and rice paddies – both villages with a full line-up of shops selling phallus statues in all sizes, colors and artistic renderings – to eventually arrive at the monastery on top of a hill.

The monastery was built in 1499 in honor of Lama Drukpa Kunley (the divine madman). Murals inside the temple building depict stories of his life – including his encounter with Dochu La Domm, a demon he subdued with his magic thunderbolt of wisdom (I guess, you get the idea, where the phalluses are coming from). In any case, phalluses are important here, with people coming here to get fertility blessings or get help in selecting a children’s name.