Today we had another long driving day ahead of us, covering the 220km from Leh to Karzok at the shores of Tso Moriri (Lake Moriri) – for the most part on properly paved roads (thanks BRO!).

We were first heading along the Leh-Manali Highway, eventually leaving that road at Upshi and continuing up along the Indus River. In Kiari we had a break for (military-strength) Masala Chai in a military-run cafe, featuring toilets for kings and queens (well, going by the signs). For lunch we stopped in Chumathang, another Hot Spring town (this one even less attractive than the one in the Nubra valley – a dip was not even offered).

Near Mahe (not the island) we turned into a side valley, now following the Raldang Nala River. We continued up, passing through Nakpokoping-La Pass (at 4830m) and then down towards Kyagar Tso (Kyagar Lake), passing by the tents of the local nomadic people. We arrived in Karzok at around 4550m above sea level in the late afternoon – and in time for a short and breathless wander around town and first glimpses of the lake.