Category Archives: _Asia_

Morioka Exploration

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I did stay local today … checking out Morioka’s temples and some of its  museums. I also did a bit of walking along the riverwalk (not overly attractive at this time of year – though I can see this being great in summer).

The highlight was clearly the Art Museum, featuring local artists and a special exhibition on the restauration work done on pieces of art after the 2011 tsunami (Iwate’s Sunriko Coast was hit heavily – incl. coastal museums). Lunch was at the nearby mall – where I also got myself a bear bell (after having seen bear warnings on a few occasions). Overall a quiet and relaxing day … and I have probably seen, what there is to see in Morioka.

 

The Samurai of Kakunodate

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I had an early start today, to get the 8:48 Shinkansen to Kakunodate – a town famous for its collection of former samurai manors. Today, quiet a few of those are open for the public – some just as they are, others repurposed to small museums – all in all this makes for great insight into the living realities in those days. One of the places even had a samurai sword available for people to lift to get a feel for its weight (it was  heavier  than I expected).

I made it back to Morioka in the afternoon – with time to get organized (tickets for the coming days, laundry etc.) – before heading out and finding an amazing Ginger IPA 🤩

Rain in Morioka

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I made it to Morioka on another local train, arriving at my home for the next four nights around midday. From here things followed the usual pattern – I left my big bag at the hotel, had some quick lunch to then move into sightseeing mode – and check out the castle ruins, as well as the local history museum (with good background on both castle and town history). When I came out of the museum, it was pouring – I initially followed my plan for the rest of the day – until I eventually gave up and made it back to the hotel.

On to Hiraizumi and “Pureland Buddhism”

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I was back to the slow train this Sunday, making my way to Koriyama to change to the (slightly faster) Shinkansen for my trip North. In Ichonoseki it was back to a short trip on another slow train – before I arrived in Hiraizumi in the early afternoon.

After check-in at my hotel (an old-school onsen hotel with a very distinct retro feeling) I headed out for some first exploration and looks at the museums, to get an overview and prepared for Monday. Hiraizumi is home of five sites from the 11th and 12th century “representing the Buddhist Pureland” – a UNESCO world heritage since 2011 … so, tons to explore.

Given I was staying at an actual onsen hotel, of course I had to have a look at and a dip into the onsen before dinner. I had decided for the hotel plan including dinner (simply as there are not that many options in town) – and dinner turned out a great surprise: keiseki – Japanese haute cuisine – with all dishes nicely presented, a bit of everything (raw, pickled, boilt, grilled,  etc.) and everything super-oishy.

By slow train to the samurai – Aizu-Wakamatsu

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I had picked Aizu-Wakamatsu as my next destination – from Niigata that meant, I had to take the slow train (actually two slow trains and a connection that only worked as the second train was as delayed as the first). The trip took more than three hours (with more than 25 stops), felt super-ineffective (by car this would have been half the time) – but was relaxing and enjoyable with great landscape all around.

After arrival I dropped my stuff in the hostel, had a quick lunch (a local “soul food” dish that reminded me of spaghetti bolognese), to then continue for the castle (destroyed back in the 1860s, rebuild in concrete a good 100 years later), get a view over town and – in an old samurai villa – introduced to samurai culture.

Tea Houas Feudal

To the Coast and into Sake Country

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From Nagano it was on to Niigata. The highway bus felt like the most effective method of transport to me … direct, 3.5 hours at 25 EUR (shinkansen would have been an hour less at three times the price and with a connection) – so I went by bus, a very comfortable and spacious ride.

I made it  to  Niigata on Thursday afternoon, used some to get organized (train tickets for the coming days, reservation for  the sake tour on Friday) and fed (ramen) – to then head out into town and towards the beach and coastal park.

I got myself on the Niigata tourist / loop bus on Friday and made my way out to the historic villa of the Saito family – a rich merchant family in Niigata. The villa today is a historic landmark and a museum. From here it was on to the former residence of the Ozawa Family – another family that had made good use of Niigata’s state as one of the five ports open to foreigners. After a short visit to the local history (short – as most signage was Japanese only) I made it back to the train station for lunch (hot soba) – before heading for the big sake brewery for a tour and (of course) a tasting … to get a feeling and compare the different quality grades and  variations. A trip to the fish market completed my day – plus sure-enough a visit to my hotel onsen.

The “World after Death” in Nagano

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This morning I took the local train over to Nagano – the host city of the 1998 olympic winter games. After arrival at my hotel I made it straight to town’s main attraction – Zenko-ji Buddhist Temple. I did the full tour here, incl. the crypt in the dark “to experience the world after death and touching the key to paradise” (well, that’s what the instructions said). Otherwise it was back to city exploration. The evening I spent very local … with dinner in a small, hidden izakaya that probably only sees the occasional tourist …very local with an older clientele – yet friendly and good food, good interaction (despite the language gap)and certainly an experience. From here I made it to a craft beer brewery – another local place but one catering for a younger crowd … good beer and good conversations (again bridging the language gap) – all in all a great evening.

On to Matsumoto – for a Castle and “crazy” Art

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OnIt was time to move on … next destination being Matsumoto – a mere two hours by train (limited express) away. My motivation for coming here was – of course – Matsumoto’s castle – but, also the city’s art museum showcasing the work of Matsumoto-born Yayoi Kusama. I had come across her work some years back, so was glad to see more in her birth town.

After a mid-day arrival on Monday I did some quick exploration of the city center to then move on to a local miso brewery for a tour and to try the product – the best miso ever … sooo umami … and miso ice cream is a real winner. From here it was to the castle grounds and the local history museum – before trying another local brew and a fusion of Japan and Italy – miso pizza (essentially replacing the tomato sauce by miso) … a great combo.

My second day in town was spent with the real sightseeing … I had an early start for the castle, essentially beating the queues (well, I started it  😉 ), to then head on for the art museum (no disappointment here … my favorite being the ladder to heaven – no photography here so, you’ll just have to google). It was late morning by now and with all other museums of interest for me closed (who closes museums on Tuesday?) and rain pouring down, I made my way to the local mall for some tea and a tour (just to realize how Japanese malls are actually very interesting). After lunch (cold soba with wasabi greens), nothing else to do and feeling cold, I made my way to the local super sento for a bit of relaxation and heat.

Coming back to the hotel, I used my cool-down time for laundry. Dinner was very local – in a small second-floor izakaya and local mountain cuisine, accompanied by local sake – super-oishy!