Category Archives: _Asia_

Exploring Gyeongju

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A quick train ride got me from Andong to Gyeongju – UNESCO world heritage site and essentially an open museum with a bit of everything – from the graves of kings and a (massively commercialized) hanok area (we’d call it “old town” in the West) to several Buddhist temples and tons of Buddhist artifacts.

After arrival, dropping my stuff at the guesthouse and a quick lunch, I started out to explore the core town and the graves of kings. This being a long holiday weekend Monday it was CROWDED – way too many people for my taste. I made my way through the Daereungwon Ancient Tomb Complex (essentially a park with hilly mound graves) via the observatory (supposedly the oldest in Asia) and on to the National Museum. This one was packed as well, I eventually aborted my visit, as I was not even able to read through the explanations with people pushing behind me. I made my way back into town, to eventually find happiness in the local brew and food.

Back to the big City … on to Otaru and Sapporo

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I spent the morning on a train, making all the way from Kushiro to Sapporo and then on to Otaru. This being Sunday and the start of Japanese Golden Week, the place was packed. My walk got me from the station to canal and then on to some other landmark buildings, the last bit through a tourist shopping street. It was too packed to enjoy, hence I made it back to Sapporo to check-in to my hotel and for some first exploration in Hokkaido’s biggest city.

 

Northern Prisoners

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Today was reserved for the three big-hitters in Abashiri.  In the morning I started at the Northern Peoples Museum, a museum essentially covering all Arctic regions and peoples – from the local Okthosk People, via the Sami to the Inuit. Overall another excellent museum with a good combination of exhibits – and of special interest for me given my previous visits to the high North. Though – I was a bit shocked by how they named the various tribes … I have not seen the word “eskimo” in a while – here it is in constant use – also it took me a  while to figure out that “North-Indian” actually refers to America – and not India…

A short walk got me over to the drift ice museum and experience center, which – to be honest – felt a bit like a tourist trap with just a small exhibition, a short film and an icy experienc (a room cooled down to -15°C with the option to see a wet towel turn solid) – plus of course the usual well equipped shop and restaurant … at least their viewing platfom and their soft serve did not disappoint.

Final stop was at the infamous Abashiri Prison Museum – a 20 minute walk away. The museum is a collection of buildings from Abashiri prison history. The prison was originally established in Abashiri in the 1880s with the prisoners pushed into forced labour, building up the infrastructure (mainly roads) – to connect this remote part of Hokkaido with the rest of the country … and to allow the establishment of a military presence to avoid a potential Russian invasion from the North. Living and working conditions here were harsh and many died in the process (incl. guards).

To the Okhotsk Sea

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Today I made it back to the sea – a train trip of four hours got me from  Asahikawa to Abashiri in Hokkaido’s North-East, right at the Okhtosk Sea.

After leaving my big luggage in the hotel and a quick lunch (soba with a small salmon rice bowl) I did check out the harbour and made my way to the beach. With the water temperature at 4°C I saved the bath for later (in the hotel’s onsen) – and made my way to the Moyoro Shell Mound Museum – an archeological museum on the Okhtosk people, showcasing the findings from the nearby shell mound site.

After a quick visit to the local art museum (featuring local artists) I made it back to the harbor for a viewing platform – with great views over the sea and towards the Shiretoko peninsular and mountain range – approximately 70 to 80km away.