Category Archives: 2025:RTW-Japan

By slow train to the samurai – Aizu-Wakamatsu

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I had picked Aizu-Wakamatsu as my next destination – from Niigata that meant, I had to take the slow train (actually two slow trains and a connection that only worked as the second train was as delayed as the first). The trip took more than three hours (with more than 25 stops), felt super-ineffective (by car this would have been half the time) – but was relaxing and enjoyable with great landscape all around.

After arrival I dropped my stuff in the hostel, had a quick lunch (a local “soul food” dish that reminded me of spaghetti bolognese), to then continue for the castle (destroyed back in the 1860s, rebuild in concrete a good 100 years later), get a view over town and – in an old samurai villa – introduced to samurai culture.

Tea Houas Feudal

To the Coast and into Sake Country

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From Nagano it was on to Niigata. The highway bus felt like the most effective method of transport to me … direct, 3.5 hours at 25 EUR (shinkansen would have been an hour less at three times the price and with a connection) – so I went by bus, a very comfortable and spacious ride.

I made it  to  Niigata on Thursday afternoon, used some to get organized (train tickets for the coming days, reservation for  the sake tour on Friday) and fed (ramen) – to then head out into town and towards the beach and coastal park.

I got myself on the Niigata tourist / loop bus on Friday and made my way out to the historic villa of the Saito family – a rich merchant family in Niigata. The villa today is a historic landmark and a museum. From here it was on to the former residence of the Ozawa Family – another family that had made good use of Niigata’s state as one of the five ports open to foreigners. After a short visit to the local history (short – as most signage was Japanese only) I made it back to the train station for lunch (hot soba) – before heading for the big sake brewery for a tour and (of course) a tasting … to get a feeling and compare the different quality grades and  variations. A trip to the fish market completed my day – plus sure-enough a visit to my hotel onsen.

The “World after Death” in Nagano

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This morning I took the local train over to Nagano – the host city of the 1998 olympic winter games. After arrival at my hotel I made it straight to town’s main attraction – Zenko-ji Buddhist Temple. I did the full tour here, incl. the crypt in the dark “to experience the world after death and touching the key to paradise” (well, that’s what the instructions said). Otherwise it was back to city exploration. The evening I spent very local … with dinner in a small, hidden izakaya that probably only sees the occasional tourist …very local with an older clientele – yet friendly and good food, good interaction (despite the language gap)and certainly an experience. From here I made it to a craft beer brewery – another local place but one catering for a younger crowd … good beer and good conversations (again bridging the language gap) – all in all a great evening.

On to Matsumoto – for a Castle and “crazy” Art

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OnIt was time to move on … next destination being Matsumoto – a mere two hours by train (limited express) away. My motivation for coming here was – of course – Matsumoto’s castle – but, also the city’s art museum showcasing the work of Matsumoto-born Yayoi Kusama. I had come across her work some years back, so was glad to see more in her birth town.

After a mid-day arrival on Monday I did some quick exploration of the city center to then move on to a local miso brewery for a tour and to try the product – the best miso ever … sooo umami … and miso ice cream is a real winner. From here it was to the castle grounds and the local history museum – before trying another local brew and a fusion of Japan and Italy – miso pizza (essentially replacing the tomato sauce by miso) … a great combo.

My second day in town was spent with the real sightseeing … I had an early start for the castle, essentially beating the queues (well, I started it  😉 ), to then head on for the art museum (no disappointment here … my favorite being the ladder to heaven – no photography here so, you’ll just have to google). It was late morning by now and with all other museums of interest for me closed (who closes museums on Tuesday?) and rain pouring down, I made my way to the local mall for some tea and a tour (just to realize how Japanese malls are actually very interesting). After lunch (cold soba with wasabi greens), nothing else to do and feeling cold, I made my way to the local super sento for a bit of relaxation and heat.

Coming back to the hotel, I used my cool-down time for laundry. Dinner was very local – in a small second-floor izakaya and local mountain cuisine, accompanied by local sake – super-oishy!

Transportation Day – on to Nagoya

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I had another early morning (thanks to – once more –  jetlag) and another lengthy breakfast (to kill some time and wait out the rain). Eventually I headed out for Tokyo main station to catch the Shinkansen Nozomi Super-Express to Nagoya and got there around midday.

After leaving my stuff in the hotel, I had a walk through town, heading for Noritake Gardens … the place of a former porcelain factory – now a nice park with shops and an attached mall. From here it was on to my main destination in Nagoya – the impressive Toyota Commerative Museum of Industry and Technology. This museum tells the story of the  Toyata company – from the early days building looms and other related machinery and the innovation going into it (all with working machines available and constant demonstrations) … to the air-driven looms of today (and – yes, you can still buy Toyota looms). From here it was over to the car business – how Toyoda was motivated to invest  into this new line of business and then the development from the early days in the 1930s until today, from initial struggles to becoming a world brand. Advances in both production methods and product  development  were showcased – again with plenty of working machinery and demonstrations. There was also an introductory  showcase on the Toyota Production System – essentially the basis of the global kaizen movement.  In short this was easily the best industrial museum I have ever been to.

I made  the walk back into town for a bit of dinner and an introduction into the Nagoya craft beer scene – before it was time to head back to the hotel for some deserved rest.

Big in Japan – back to Tokyo

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From San Francisco it was on to Asia – a ten-hour flight got me into Narita on Thursday, from here I made it to Akihabara for the first true Japanese experience: two nights in a capsule hotel. I had decided for a more traditional place with an artificial onsen (public hot spring bath). I was impressed, this place was very well organized, everything is provided (from house-wear, toiletries to towels) – and considering the other ~35 beds on my level, it was fairly relaxed and quiet. I’d definetely do this again  –  it made a great experience and was much better than any hostel, I have been at so far.

I had an early start on Friday … jetlag got me up around 05:00 – I kind of dozed on for another 45 minutes, before heading for the capsule hotel’s sento (public bath) and got ready for the day. After a long breakfast I made my way up to Ueno Park … with cherry blossoms  everywhere and a cherry blossom festival going on as well (not at 09:00 in the morning though). I spent some time  in Japan’s National Museum, before having an early lunch at the festival. The afternoon I spent in the area around the Imperial Palace, closing with a visit at the National Museum of Modern Art. In the evening I met with a former colleague from Tokyo – we ended up in a traditional izakaya restaurant for some great food, beer and sake – before continuing to a downstairs karaoke bar for more drinks and proof that I cannot sing 😉