Back to Hanoi

We arrived back to Hanoi in the early afternoon. I felt miserable and cold after the long, bumpy ride on the bus; the cool and rainy weather in Hanoi did not help much either. After a shower I decided for a walk over to the Quán Thánh Temple and the West Lake with the Trấn Quốc Pagoda. A nearby tea / coffee place offered a good break and I did feel well again, so after consulting my guide book and google, I decided to continue for the Hanoi citadel.

The citadel used to be the residence of the Vietnamese kings and goes back to the 11th century; in 2010 it was recognized as UNESCO world heritage site. More interesting for me though – the citadel was also home of the Vietnamese military command – complete with hidden bunkers and tunnels.

Hue … first Impressions

After our arrival in Hue we had lunch with a local family (I should probably rephrase that to feast), followed by some first sightseeing with the Thien Mu Pagoda being our first stop. This historic temple dates back to the early 17th century, the pagoda is (based on wikipedia) is the tallest religious building in Vietnam.

After our visit we boarded a boat to make the trip back on the perfume river. After our downtown arrival and a short walk back to the hotel, I ventured out for another walk around town – making my way towards the Dieu De Pagoda. I walked back through the citadel – and made it back to the hotel just after dark.

On the Road to Hue

We left Hoi an on Christmas Day, continuing our journey North with Hue – roughly 130km away – being our next destination.

En-route we had a number of further stops, the first already after about half an hour at Da Nang’s Chinese Beach. After crossing a high pass along the way, we had a further stop at a beach before proceeding to Hue.

Christmas Eve

Today was also Christmas Eve – and the hotel had organized a Christmas Eve Gala Dinner – and really put an effort into it. The tables were arranged around the pool, nicely decorated, candles floating in the water, a small stage set up and a massive buffet prepared (with a great selection of food and live barbecue); there was even a guy in a Santa Claus costume. Things seemed perfect – until the entertainment started …

Entertainment seemed to consist of a weird combination of speeches, strange (at least from a Western perspective) games and karaoke. Things started to get strange straight after the speech of the hotel manager (most guests still eating at this point) – when they were looking for volunteers for the first game (which had a karaoke feeling to it, though – I think, no one really fully understood, what the game was about). Short to say – no volunteers could be found, so things moved on to the next speech and a draw. There were also no volunteers for the following set of singing – so now the hotel staff had to take it and we witnessed the various hotel departments come to stage.

Another game was on thereafter … kind of the Vietnamese version of a Piñata. I volunteered and got rewarded with fridge magnets and glitter down to my underwear (the Vietnamese Piñata is filled with glitter – and I ran straight into the glitter shower after I had hit the thing). More singing was to come after the game and the tables started to empty. We were some of the last ones to leave.

Lessons learned:

  • culture shock can be two ways … here we had a Western holiday (and one which traditionally is one of the more contemplative ones) – and the Vietnamese concept of celebration clashing. For the Westerners the program simply did not fit the occasion (this would have been perfect for a New Year’s Eve party after dinner), while our Vietnamese hosts could not understand that we would not volunteer for some fun on this happy day … mutual culture shock …
  • the folks from accounting actually could sing – house keeping though would easily go through as torture per the Geneva conventions.

Looking back – it was actually a fun evening – the food was great and – while the show may have been unexpected, it was still entertaining – so, what more to ask for!?

Hoi An – Bike Ride

We were after a bit of activity today, so decided to go for a bike tour around an island in the river. Our guide did pick us up at the hotel, from here we made it to the tour company’s depot, where we got to pick our bikes

We were now on bikes – made our way to the ferry to cross over to the island. Here we had a leisurely bike ride through villages and rice paddies. Traffic around us with very limited, so riding a bike was really enjoyable. We had a number of stops during the ride to get a glimpse of life on the island and its industries – from sleeping mats, rice wine (or better rice liquor) to rice noodles. We also met the owners of those businesses and had some good discussions – and of course we also got to try their products.

Hoi An Market & Cooking Class

While traveling I usually try to also get some insight into the local cuisine, its ingredients and ways of preparation. A cooking class is usually perfect for that and we had the time – so here I was …

The class did start in the morning with a visit to the market with an introduction to the local fruits and vegetables, as well as spices. In the evening the actual class did take place. We were essentially cooking dinner together with our teacher, everyone helping in each and every step during preparation. Needless to say – preparation and cooking was good fun – and the result was delicious (we started with a green papaya salad, followed by spring rolls, fish grilled in a banana leaf and caramelized egg plants).