Category Archives: _Europe_

Final Impressions of Georgia

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Today our time in Georgia had come to an end. Though – before making it to the border, to leave the country, we still had some highlights ahead of us.

From Kvareli we made it to Gremi, a 16th citadel and the Church of the Archangels. We had a look around the complex – though (today being Sunday) with a service in progress quickly resorted to enjoying the views over the valley from the citadel’s outer walls.

A short drive got us to the city of Telavis, where we had a stop at the market for a chance to get rid of the last laris – either by buying some last minute souvenirs or by simply exchanging them back to Euros.

I had given up my Georgian money to the last tetri by the time, we were back on the bus and moving on to Alaverdi Monastery (ალავერდის მონასტერი).

This still active monastery, complete with fortress-style walls, dates back to the sixth century, though the current structures were only built in the eleventh century. We had the usual walk around the grounds, though had to skip a detailed tour inside the church, as (once more – it still being Sunday) a service was in progress.

In Kvareli a final Georgian lunch was waiting for us – before we continued to the border.

More Wine …

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Kvareli (ყვარელი) was the destination for the day.

After some rest in the hotel we made it over to the local winery for a tour of the winery and an overview of the process – especially the production process for kvevri wine. Of course the visit did culminate in a tasting, where we were presented a few locally produced wines (including kvevri and Western-style ones).

Around Sighnaghi

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We left Tbilisi behind today and continued our trip, now heading for the Kakheti region, Georgia’s main wine region.

The first stop of the day was at the Convent of St. Nino at Bodbe. The convent goes back to the ninth century, though there have been significant changes over the centuries. Today it is a main pilgrimage site in Georgio, due to the relics of St.Nino – Georgia’s national saint – being enshrined here. The convent today is a working nunnery.

Given its significance, the convent was full of tourists and pilgrims. I decided against joining the queue, to see the relics of St.Nino – and instead enjoyed a less spiritual coffee in the cafe next to the convent.

A quick ten minute drive (plus time at a viewpoint) got us into the town of Sighnaghi (სიღნაღი). The town is situated on a hill overlooking the Alazani valley, offering nice views, a nice pedestrian area, some interesting shops and a small market.

Sighnaghi also sits in the middle of wine country, so there are also wine shops and wine bars around … and as we had some time to spend, some of us ended up in one of the wine bars for a bit of a tasting.

In Georgia wine traditionally is produced the kvevri way, which means that the fermentation takes place in a buried and sealed kind of amphora (i.e. the kvevri). Given the process Kvevri wines tend to be harsher and heavier in tannin, they also may have a more distinct color (e.g. white kvevri wines often have a yellow or golden color). Today Georgian wineries typically produce kvevri-style, but also the Western way (i.e. steel tanks, casks).

Well – we were at winery – Pheasant’s Tears Winery – that is specialized in kvevri wines, so had an interesting tasting of some delicious wines.

Tbilisi Impressions

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We finally made it to Tbilisi, Georgia’s capital, in the early afternoon – so with plenty of time, to visit some museums and do other things.

Well – I took it easy and ended up doing an extended walk around town, covering the main sites, having a drink, to then head for an early dinner. After dark I also took the funicular up to Mtatsminda Park for some night-time views of town.

Ananuri Fortress

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We had left Stepantsminda in the morning, to make the three hour drive to Tbilisi. Sure enough the drive was split up with some visits on the way.

The first stop did come early and before the Jvari pass – a short one at a war cemetery. As we crossed the pass and got to the other side of the mountain range, the weather had turned – blue skies (with some clouds) and sunshine.

We continued to the Ananuri Fortress Complex (ანანურის ციხის კომპლექსი). The fortress dates back to the 13th century. Given its location right next to the military highway, the fortress was the scene of many battles over the centuries. The castle grounds include two churches, the smaller Church of the Virgin built in the first half of the 17th century – and the larger Church of the Mother God built in the second half of that century.

Valleys, a Waterfall & a Border

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Today continued to be an active day.

After lunch we got on the bus and left town heading North. After a quick stop at the Terek Valley Viewpoint (and an opportunity for some panoramic shots), we made it (after a bit of confusion) to the trail head for the Gveleti Waterfall hike.

The hike got us up a side valley – with the high Gveleti waterfall being the destination – all in all a worthwhile exercise.

Back at the bus we did kept on heading North and toward the border between Georgia and Russia. While we got a glimpse of the border (with clear instruction, to not take photos), we had a different reason for being here: a visit of the Dariali Monastery complex.

Meeting the Flintstones

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A short drive got us to the ancient rock town of Uplistsikhe (უფლისციხე, translating as lord’s fortress).

The town features structures from the Iron Age up to medieval times – and also is a good showcase of pagan, as well as Christian buildings – as such reflecting the Christianization of Georgia from the forth century.