Khor Virap Monastery

Today we were about to learn, that no tourist day in Armenia is complete without at least two monasteries or churches.

We left Yerevan in the morning and were heading South. A drive of about 45 minutes or 45km got us to the Khor Virap monastery (Խոր Վիրապ).

The monastery is located on a hill with breathtaking views of Mt.Ararat.

It originally got built back in the middle of the seventh century; the location was picked, as it was the place, where Gregory the Illuminator was incarcerated in a pit for twelve years in the late third century, before becoming a mentor to the then king of Armenia, who finally ended up declaring Armenia a Christian country in 301 AD. As a result the monastery is of great significance to the Armenian Church and remains an important pilgrimage site until today.

Over the centuries the monastery got destroyed a number of times; the current reconstruction dates back to the second half of the 17th century.

We had a visit around the premises and buildings – all with plenty of details and background. Those eager to do the climb down into the dungeon (essentially an attempt of a reproduction of Saint Gregory’s pit), had the chance, to do so. Surely there was also enough time, to enjoy the views of Mt.Ararat.

Of Brandy & Fountains

As to be expected, we were not in the best mood, when we got back to the bus from the genocide memorial. What coincidence, that our next (and final) stop for the day was at the Yerevan ARARAT Brandy Company.

In the factory we first had a guided tour, introducing brandy (in general), the production process and of course the final product. We also got to see the peace barrel. This special  barrel, has been set for aging in 2001 and will only be opened when the conflict around Karabakh is resolved (well – given the current state of affairs, this may end up being a very mature brandy). After the tour we made it into a tasting room, where two glasses of Ararat brandy were waiting for us – a three-year old one and an eight-year old (if my memory serves right) – as well as some chocolate, to go with it (so less generous than at KVINT a year back). Well – I am not too much into brandys, so while I liked the older one more – I would have preferred a good gin.

It had been a busy day and – with the sun already – it was now time, to return to the hotel and call it a day. Some of us ended up, to make our way into town for dinner. On the way back we had a stop at Republic Square, to see the Dancing Fountains. Music is played here and the fountains basically ‘dance’ along – photos below.

At the Genocide Memorial Complex

While the tour – oddly enough – did not include a visit of the genocide museum or memorial, there of course were loads of questions around the genocide. We got good feedback from our tour guide here – and she managed, to find the time, so we could have a visit to the memorial (not the museum though).

So instead of heading back into town, we were now driving up the Tsitsernakaberd hill, to make it to the Armenian Genocide Memorial Complex (Ցեղասպանության զոհերի հուշարձան). From the parking lot we made our way along memory alley to the memorial itself, were we did lay down flowers in memory of the victims of the genocide.

For a good overview of the events from 1914 until 1923 have a look at the Wikipedia page, covering the Armenian Genocide; alternatively have a visit of the online exhibition of the Genocide Museum.

Introduction to the Armenian Church

It took us about half an hour, to make the about 25km from Yerevan to Etchmiadzin. After a very secular first part of the day, it was now time for a first introduction to the Armenian Church and Armenian churches – – and what better place, to start with that than at the mother see of holy Etchmiadzin or the the Armenian Church equivalent of the Vatican.

We entered the grounds by walking through a gate, to then pass by several khachkars (Armenian cross stones), to eventually make it to the Etchmiadzin Cathedral. The cathedral dates back to the early fourth century – and as such is often considered the oldest cathedral in the world. Currently the cathedral is closed, as it is being renovated – so our visit was limited to the outside.

We did proceed through the building, that houses the pontifical residence, to get to the treasury museum for its impressive exhibition of relics, religious artifacts and (no kidding) water faucets.

Well – faucets make me hungry 😉 – so it was now time, to head over to the refectory for our first lunch in Armenia and also the first sampling of Armenian wine.

After a well-deserved lunch break, we made it back to the bus, with the next stop just a few minutes away. Parking though turned out a bit tricky, as the area – around Saint Hripsime Church (Սուրբ Հռիփսիմե եկեղեցի) – was packed with wedding bridal couples (and their guests), who were using this church from the seventh century as the stage for their (conveyor-belt-style) weddings.

Our next stop was similarly packed, but this time not for the wedding ceremony itself, but only for the photos – seems the ruins of Zvartnots Cathedral (Զվարթնոց տաճար) just provide the right backdrop for wedding photography (at least for some). Similar to Saint Hripsime also Zvarnots Cathedral dates back to the seventh century; its destruction is usually estimated within the tenth century (to unknown reasons).
We had a tour around the ruins (of course without disturbing the photographers), to then end up with a surprise concert of Armenian songs presented by a group of singers (including  a famous Armenian opera singer), that just happened to be in the presentation room of the museum.

The way back to Yerevan was uneventful – as most of us ended up sleeping on the bus (the early arrival in the morning and the short night taking its toll).

Welcome to Yerevan

Last year I had done several trips, touching successor states of the Soviet Union. During those trips I also did hear stories from my fellow travelers on the countries in the Caucasus, praising the variety of things to see, the hospitality of the people and the food. So I ultimately decided, that it was time, to experience the Caucasus myself – and got booked. The tour I selected – run by a German tour company – was one of the few tours actually covering all three countries – Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan – extending all the way from the small Caucasus to the big Caucasus and from the Black Sea to the Caspian Sea.

The trip now had started yesterday. I (along with the rest of the group) had arrived in Armenia in the early morning and were now – after a short night and a late breakfast – heading out, to see the highlights of Yerevan.

The tour started at the Monument to 50 Years of Soviet Armenia, located on a platform high above town, featuring panoramic views of the city and Mt.Ararat behind it.

From here we followed the steps downstairs and made our way to the Cascade Complex (Կասկադ համալիր) – but only after passing around the construction site of the unfinished part of the complex (waiting for funding, to become available). At the complex we made it to the inside, where the Cafesjian Center for the Arts (Գաֆէսճեան արվեստի կենտրոն) – a modern arts gallery – is located.

From the lower parts of the complex, we could get a good overview of Alexander Tamanyan Park (the park right at the bottom of the stairs) and France Square with the opera house right behind it. The park did raise some memories – of kiwis (the animal) and Botero; the architecture of the opera house did remind me of the one in Minsk.

It was also next to the park, where we were picked up by our bus – to leave town …

Heidelberg by Steam Train

I have been a member of the friends’ association supporting the local volunteer fire brigade for years. With this year marking the 125th anniversary of that association, the management committee here had decided, to invite its members to a very special excursion as a sort of anniversary celebration.

The idea had been a trip down into history, which was brought to live by a trip on an actual steam train. As such – this morning, we made it to the local commuter train station, where we were picked up by a 1943 produced steam locomotive.

From here we enjoyed a trip of around three hours, making our way via Darmstadt, Bensheim and Weinheim to Heidelberg.

In Heidelberg we had about four hours, to explore town, its nice setup at the Neckar river and the world-famous views of the castle and the old town.

At about 17:00 we had to be back at the train station, to board the train and get back to Rodgau again via Weinheim, Bensheim and Darmstadt.

Below some impressions from both the train, train ride – and of course the mandatory shots of Heidelberg.

Into the Allgäu

This long (Pentecost) weekend saw me having a small family reunion in Germany’s Allgäu region. We spent the full weekend in the CenterParc resort (so no photos here). On the way back however we decided for a detour towards the Alps and had a stop at a longtime favorite of my parents – the Tegelberg (i.e. in direct vicinity of Neuschwanstein castle).

We decided to take the ropeway up the mountain for some incredible views over the region. After a short walk around the mountain station we made it down again, to continue our way home.

Bye-bye Kiev

After our return from Chernobyl we were heading out for a final evening dinner in a restaurant underneath Independence Square. Below some photos of the square during the way back after dinner Friday night.

With my taxi to the airport leaving at 10:30 on Saturday morning, I found myself with a bit of time, to have a closer look at the information displays around the maidan, telling the story of the euromaidan revolution – how it started, what happened, how it ended and also the role of social media in the revolution – overall a good installation with loads of detail – – and one that left me quiet thankful for all the freedom, peace and liberty, I have at home and that I (and many others) probably take granted a bit too much …

Overall it’s been an interesting trip through a region in Europe, very little visited. This one was clearly not about mind-blowing landscape or world class attractions – but more a glimpse into recent history (sometimes subtle, sometimes very direct), the very different developments in the region after the collapse of the Soviet Union and the overall attitude towards the EU vs. Russia.
To conclude – for me the highlights of the trip were clearly the glimpses into the past, back into Soviet times – the living and breathing version in Tiraspol – but also the abandoned and closed-down version in Pripjat (and if you look closely, you will see, that both cities have the same Ferris Wheel model). Otherwise the wow-factor on this trip really is between the lines, in the little things and in comparing different cities and territories.

To read through this trip chronologically, start in Romania.