On to Fogo Island and São Filipe

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We had an early morning today, leaving the hotel at 6am to make the trip to the airport for our flight over to Fogo – with caffeine only flowing after check-in.

A quick flight of 22min (covering ~120km) on a Lithuanian ATR got us over to São Filipe on Fogo Island – a true island of fire. We had a late Cachupa-heavy breakfast (some might call it brunch) on arrival in a restaurant downtown São Filipe, followed by a city tour, covering a coffee roaster, the church and market and some good views across town.

Down the Gomgom Valley

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The plan for today was a first proper hike. A transfer got us to Serra Malagueta and the
visitor center of the National Park in the morning. We had a bit time to check out the small exhibition here and a first encounter with cow tongue (one of the local plants) – before starting the hike down the Gomgom valley. An overall distance of about 10km was ahead of us, with 300m up and 1000m down.

We initially followed a trail along a ledge – in windy and cool conditions and through shrouded forest – until we made it down into the valley, passing abandoned farms and the Gomgom village. The hike concluded in Hortelão – for the first ponche of the trip (local cocktail from rum, and something fruity and sweet – in this case green tamarind – similar to poncha on Madeira).

Hiking to Cidade Velha – Welcome to Cabo Verde

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My travel year 2025 started with an organized hiking trip on the Cabo Verde islands. Arrival was late at night after one of tightest flights ever (on Torture Air Portugal via Lisbon); we made it to the hotel in the outskirts of Praia around 2am.

A short night later it was time for a bit of orientation, getting used to the local currency and a first short hike. By bus we got to Maria Parda for our 4km walk down to Cidade Velha. The hike got us walking through a fertile valley, full of fruit trees and even a baobab – a perfect first introduction to the archipelago’s flora.

After we made it into town, we had a quick visit of the church of our Lady of the Rosary – and a first introduction to the city’s sad history – as one of the main transfer sites in the slave trade between Africa and the Americas in the 16th and 17th century. From the church we made our way through the old town and on to the former slave market and Pelourhino square (complete with a pillory from the early 16th century used for public punishment of rebellious slaves). The city has been a UNESCO world heritage site since 2009.

It was now back onto the bus for the trip into the mountains to our next hotel at Rui Vaz – at ~820m above sea-level much cooler.

Back to Kolkata ..

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We made it back to Kolkata half an hour before the planned arrival time; immigration and customs were quick (well – for most) and we were soon picked up for the transfer to the hotel and the rest of the day was in our hands.

Together with two fellow travelers I was now on a quest for a traditional High Tea. Unfortunately the go-to-place for that – the Oberoi Grand – was closed for renovation, so our destination was another high-end luxury hotel with an attached tea lounge. It took as more than an hour to walk the 3.5km, first following Park Street (passing by the seat of the archbishop) and then through the market along Chowringee Road – what a culture shock after our quiet time in Bhutan. When we arrived at the hotel, we were quick to realize that the tea lounge had survived only in name – and not as a place for a traditional cuppa with cucumber sandwiches and scones. A bit disappointed we gave the hotel’s restaurant a go – had a cup of tea along with some sandwiches – followed by cake in the hotel’s bakery … essentially a DIY High Tea. This was all washed down with a nice local orangy Gin & Tonic, before we hit a taxi, to get back to our hotel.

We left Kolkata in the early morning of the next day for our flight back home.
This has been another great trip, a great itinerary, an superb group and outstanding tour leaders – combined with the best weather, natural beauty all along and fabulous views. A clear recommendation!

Bye-bye Bhutan – Flying the Dragon

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Today we were leaving Bhutan, flying out on Druk Air’s ATR42-600 back to Kolkata and back to the hustle and bustle of India. As we took off (half an hour before schedule) and gained altitude there were great views of Paro Valley and – later on in the flight – of some of the giants of the Himalaya.

Bonus temple: Kyichu Lhakhang

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We made it back to town in the early afternoon – and in time for a late lunch. From the restaurant it was on to a bonus temple: Kyichu Lhakhang.

This temple is truly ancient, the first one in Bhutan, originally built in the 7th century. This was probably one of the more atmospheric temples on the trip – and it certainly helped that this one was fairly busy with locals going by their religious rituals. While we had the usual guided tour, the real enjoyable piece here was to just soak in and enjoy the atmosphere.

From Zhong to Town

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After our visit to Rinpung Zhong we had a short walk, following the stairs downhill towards the river. A short side trip got us to Hungrel Gyem Lhakhang, another (smaller) temple next to the river. From here we continued to and across the Nyamai Zam Footbridge – with great views of Paro Zhong from the other side.

After a quick visit to Kaja Throm Market and checking out the festivities at Druk Choeding Lhakhang (the Buddhist temple close to Paro’s city center), we finally made our way to the hotel North of the city center.