Northern Prisoners

Today was reserved for the three big-hitters in Abashiri.  In the morning I started at the Northern Peoples Museum, a museum essentially covering all Arctic regions and peoples – from the local Okthosk People, via the Sami to the Inuit. Overall another excellent museum with a good combination of exhibits – and of special interest for me given my visits to the high North. Though – I was a bit shocked by how they named the various tribes … I have not seen the word “eskimo” in a while – here it is in constant use – also it took me a  while to figure out that “North-Indian” here refers to America – and not India…

A short walk got me over to the drift ice museum and experience center, which – to be honest – felt a bit like a tourist trap with just a small exhibition, a short film and an icy experienc (a room cooled down to -15°C with the option to see a wet towel turn solid) – plus of course the usual well equipped shop and restaurant … at least their viewing platfom did not disappoint.

Final stop was at the infamous Abashiri Prison Museum – a 20 minute walk away. The museum is a collection of buildings from Abashiri prison history. The prison was originally established in Abashiri in the 1880s with the prisoners pushed into forced labour, building up the infrastructure (mainly roads) – to connect this remote part of Hokkaido with the rest of the country … and to allow the establishment of a military presence to avoid a potential Russian invasion from the North. Living and working conditions here were harsh and many died in the process (incl. guards).

To the Okhotsk Sea

Today I made it back to the sea – a train trip of four hours got me from  Asahikawa to Abashiri in Hokkaido’s North-East, right at the Okhtosk Sea.

After leaving my big luggage in the hotel and a quick lunch (soba with a small salmon rice bowl) I did check out the harbour and made my way to the beach. With the water temperature at 4°C I saved the bath for later (in the hotel’s onsen) – and made my way to the Moyoro Shell Mound Museum – an archeological museum on the Okhtosk people, showcasing the findings from the nearby shell mound site.

After a quick visit to the local art museum (featuring local artists) I made it back to the harbor for a viewing platform – with great views over the sea and towards the Shiretoko peninsular and mountain range – approximately 70 to 80km away.