Exploring “Town” – Day & Night Edition

There was still time after our return from our hike in the Small Tsingys. I decided to join some fellow travelers for a walk into Bekopaka village for a bit of an exploration. Calling it a town would probably be stretching things a little, but it certainly offered a glimpse of everyday life in this remote corner of Madagascar.

We wandered past the local school, churches, small shops and restaurants, watching the village go about its business. Nothing particularly spectacular, but sometimes these little detours offer a more interesting insight into a place than another organized sightseeing stop. Naturally, there was also time for a drink (in my case a whole 1.5l bottle of water) along the way before heading back to the hotel.

Here something special was waiting: a terrace facing the setting sun overlooking the surrounding jungle – and a show with the sky slowly changing colors above the seemingly endless greenery. One of those moments when you simply sit back and enjoy the view.

Our pre-dinner excursion followed – and turned out a bit underwhelming. We were heading out for a short walk in the vicinity of the village, hoping to spot some of the local nocturnal wildlife. Madagascar has plenty of interesting creatures that only come out after dark, so expectations were reasonably high.

Unfortunately, the experience turned out to be something of a camera-lens competition. Whenever a maki or chameleon was spotted, an ever-growing collection of camera lenses appeared around it, all desperately trying to get the perfect shot in the dark. At times, it was difficult to see what all that photography equipment was pointed at.

Three horses and a nice vegetarian lasagna later, things looked bright again – putting me into the right mood for the adventure to come tomorrow.

The “Road” to Bekopaka

Today was all about getting to Bekopaka, our starting point for exploring the Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park. A jeep trip of roughly 210 km was ahead of us – with most of the route consisting of unpaved tracks. Two ferry river crossings added to the adventure.

About an hour into the drive we had a first quick stop at the Avenue of the Baobabs – a short stop for a daytime opportunity to take photos of these impressive trees. The famous sunset experience had to wait for later in the trip.

Around midday we reached the Tsiribihina River for our first ferry experience – vehicles are driven onto fairly basic floating platforms, which then make their way across the river. On the other shore the town of Belo-Tsiribihina was waiting with a surprisingly good lunch at the Mad Zebu restaurant. Odd name for a restaurant (would you go for a Mad Cow restaurant in the UK?) – the food, though, was almost at fine-dining level. A vegetarian dish featuring a poached egg on vegetables was certainly not what I expected halfway through a long day on dusty tracks in western Madagascar. A welcome interruption to the journey!

After lunch it was back to the road – and by the time we reached the second crossing, dusk was already setting in. We reached our hotel just after dark and after a full day on the road.