Through the Cardigan Strait

After we had passed through the ice field at the entry of the Jones Sound, our journey was fairly uneventful. Hanseatic had continued its Western course and we were about to enter the Norwegian Bay.

The original plan had been to do so through the Hell Gate, a waterway between Ellesmere Island and North Kent Island. However with the exit of the Hell Gate locked by ice (as strange as it may sound), the bridge decided for the alternative routing through the Cardigan Strait – between North Kent Island and Devon Island.

Ice was our constant companion during that passage, though it did subside the further North and deeper into the Norwegian Bay we made it.

In a further lecture in the afternoon we got some background on the early exploration of this region by Norwegian explorers. The result can be seen even today, with the names of many of the islands, bays and fjords referring back Norway.

In the evening we had another pre-cap, where the captain and the expedition leader presented the plans for the next day … we were set to continue North through the Eureka Sound – with the Eureka weather station being our destination for the next morning.

Walker Arm Fjord

After our polar bear encounter we continued deeper into the Walker Arm of the Sam Ford Fjord – with the destination being a glacier, that our expedition team had already visited in previous years.

We got to the spot and zodiacs were made ready just after lunch. My zodiac group was the first to go today – and I managed to catch the first zodiac and (for a change) take some pictures without too many of my fellow passengers.

Ashore a nice hike was waiting for us; from the landing point up the massive frontal moraine of a retreating glacier, through the sandy remains of its glacial lake (with the one or other stuck rubber boot) up to the actual glacier remains.

Our geologist – of course – was up front and providing good hints on where to walk and where not, pointing out things, providing explanations and – of course – making sure everyone was well.

In the evening – during cocktail hour – we had our first recap, to review our first shore landings, get more background on commonly asked questions – but also get to see footage and insights not everyone may have had the opportunity to (e.g. local flora, animal tracks, views from vantage points only few had made it to). These recaps really add to the expedition feeling and provide some interesting views back and more.
Lesson of the day: if you are ever offered polar bear liver, better decline that offer – otherwise you are bound to die of an overdose of vitamin A.

Morning Mood

We hit the first ice in the early morning; this happened unnoticed by most passengers – until just around sunrise the voice of the cruise director was whispering into our ears. Given the time (around 5 / 5:30) she had omitted the gong and also used the lowest setting of both the microphone and her voice.

Those of us, who made it on deck, got to see a stunning and atmospheric sunrise …