Back to Delhi

Today was another major transport day. We left Dharamsala in the morning for the 90km trip to Amb Andaura train station. Here we changed into one of the fastest (where tracks allow for that) and most modern trains on offer in India, the New Delhi Vande Bharat Express, covering the 412km in about five and a half hours – and in relative comfort.

We arrived in Delhi in the evening during a massive monsoon downpour – and streets turning into swimming pools.

The (somewhat) Golden Temple of (well) Kangra

From Kangra Fort we continued into town and made our way to the Shaktipeeth Shri Brijeshwari Devi Temple, a rebuilt Hindu temple dedicated to the goddess Vajreshvari – with plenty of activity all around.

The way back got us along Mandir Road, a market for offerings and other religious paraphernalia. On the way back we were hit by heavy monsoon rain.

We made it back to Dharamsala and our hotel in time for lunch. The afternoon saw us doing little given the continued rain fall. I ended up in a nice little cafe around the corner from the hotel over some excellent banana cake.

Into the Lowlands – to Dharamsala

Today we covered the 210km from Manali to Dharamsala, a trip that took us most day. During the drive we also could get a first proper feel of the monsoon weather with rain and washed-away streets.

Hiking the Shuru Traverse

We made it to Manali (at just 2000m above sea level) around midday and in time for a continental dinner. The afternoon was free, so I decided for a short hike through the nearby village of Shuru and on to the Friendship viewpoint – an overall 6.7km with 310m up and down.

Into India proper …

Today we were covering the final stretch along the Leh-Manali Highway. It took us about two hours to complete the remaining 70km from Keylong to Manali.

Initially we were following the Bhaga and Chandra rivers until we hit the 9km-long Atal Tunnel. There was agreement in the group that by going through the tunnel we had essentially left the Himalayan culture behind and made it (back) to India proper. Instead of Buddhist we were now going by Hindu temples; the dry and sunny mountain climate had changed to a sticky monsoon climate – and instead of Godfather we were now looking at Kingfisher beer.

Keylong Exploration

We had reached Keylong – at a mere 3080m above sea level – in the early afternoon and in time for lunch. A walk through Mall Street provided an overview of town.

In the afternoon we had the option for a trip to Kardang Monastery – the valley’s most important monastery, nicely sitting on the other side of the valley (about 1.3km away from the hotel as the crow flies – albeit a good 15km by car) with great views across the valley and beyond.