Author Archives: Björn

“Relaxation” at Sea

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One could already feel during our first night East of Greenland, that things were not going as planned.

Per the original plan, we were scheduled for another shore landing at Greenland’s east coast. A low pressure area over the Northern Denmark Strait however put that plan to a stop fairly quickly.

At some point in the first night (still on course for the east coast landing site) – with the wind and wave situation becoming more and more severe – a decision had been taken on the bridge to abandon that plan and go for a more southerly course and then straight over to Iceland. It also did not help, that another low pressure area was coming in from the South – the reasonable choice thus was to head straight for Reykjavik and the safety of the port.

For us this meant, that what the brochure described as “one day relaxation at sea” now really turned out as nearly three days – and I am sure, they were more shaky than relaxing for many of my fellow passengers.

Needless to say … we were – as usual – offered a full program, with plenty of lectures, a classical concert by the ship’s pianist and of course the usual amenities of the ship.

I also – as on my previous trips – did ask for the opportunity to get a glimpse of the machine room. On my past trips it had not worked out – but this time I got my invitation for a machine room tour. We were a small group and led through the machine area by the chief engineer of the ship. It was interesting to get that glimpse behind the scenes and also to see the machinery, that was keeping us going.

Prince Christian Sound – Part 2

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We continued our way through the Prince Christian Sound.

By now the traditional Hanseatic Pølser Party had started on the pool deck. Food (pølsers = Danish-style hot dogs) was offered – and drinks were flowing freely.

I nevertheless stayed up on the Sun Deck to a) avoid the music and b) get in the views, while we were going through the Southern bit of the Prince Christian Sound.

Of course this did not stop me from having the one or other pølser (with extra pickles of course) and punch (plus those suddenly appearing glasses of jenever).

When we hit the Southern mouth of the sound, nature had a special treat ready for us – a small group of orcas just in front of the ship … seemingly on the hunt for some prey.

Prince Christian Sound – Igdlorsuit

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The ship did stop at some point in the sound and we were invited for a shore landing at Igdlorsuit (which ultimately turned out our last shore landing before arriving in Iceland).

We made it over to the beach in an old glacial valley. A walk was offered to the front of the retreating glacier – a distance of about 1.5km / 1 mile one way through rough terrain. It turned out a nice walk through the autumn tundra – to (after climbing the glacier’s terminal moraine) get a great view of the glacier itself.

Prince Christian Sound – Part 1

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Today saw us crossing over from Greenland’s west coast to the east coast via the Prince Christian Sound.

We entered the sound in the early morning well before breakfast, but in time for a slow sunrise, that threw in amazing colors and quiet added to the mood.

My nickname for the sound: Lemaire Channel for beginners 😉

Life is a Bitch … if that’s all you get for breakfast

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The title says it all – right?

Like on my last trip, I ended up being one of the few, who had breakfast on the outer deck almost every morning. This time I had to skip for one morning in the Denmark Strait – the sea was simply to rough and the outside tables and chairs roped up and secured.

Below some photos of the views before and during breakfast this morning. Who needs breakfast, when you get to see this … ?

Disclaimer: I surely did have breakfast this morning … slowly starting with some tea – and then adding in all the other good stuff … makes life even feel bitchier – right? 😀

Hvalsey

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We had covered the 240km from the Ikka Fjord during the night; we were now in a side arm of Einars Fjord – just in front of the Hvalsey ruin site.

Hvalsey is a former Norse settlement. It is believed, that Hvalsey had been founded in the late 10th century by a cousin of Erik the Red; it was inhabited until the early 15th century, when the Norse colony essentially disappeared. Last recorded event here is awedding from 1418.

What remains today is a ruin site featuring a (fairly well preserved) church, the ruins of the great hall and community building. In the area directly around further ruins can be found, though their previous function remains a bit of mystery.

We made it ashore as usual and then had some time to explore the ruin site, but also the surrounding area … below some photographic evidence.

Ikka Fjord – Ikaites here we come …

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After the visit to the former cryolite mine of Ivittuut this morning, another interesting mineral was waiting for us this afternoon – ikaite, also dubbed as the melting mineral – as it decomposes into calcite and water once the temperature reaches around 8°C / 46°F.

The mineral had first been discovered in a fjord close to the Ivittuut mine – the Ikka fjord (hence the mineral’s name ikaite). In that fjord – under water – towers of that mineral of 10 meters and more can be found.

During lunch the ship had moved over to the Ikka fjord, where a local ranger boat was already waiting for us. Hanseatic had to stay outside the area with the ikaite, so zodiacs were prepared and then boarded.

Following the ranger boat an armada of about ten zodiacs made it into the ikaite area. Most eyes were now fixed on the water, aiming to see one of the towers at an expected meter underneath the surface. There was no luck here – with the water still murky from the storm some days back. Also it did not help, that we did the zodiac trip during high tide – the top ends of the columns must have been like a good two meters away from the surface – so bad luck, when combined with with the murkiness of the water.

Nature however did compensate for that – and threw in a load of musk oxen, as well as a brace of sea eagles.