On to Fogo Island and São Filipe

We had an early morning today, leaving the hotel at 6am to make the trip to the airport for our flight over to Fogo – with caffeine only flowing after check-in.

A quick flight of 22min (covering ~120km) on a Lithuanian ATR got us over to São Filipe on Fogo Island – a true island of fire. We had a late Cachupa-heavy breakfast (some might call it brunch) on arrival in a restaurant downtown São Filipe, followed by a city tour, covering a coffee roaster, the church and market and some good views across town.

Down the Gomgom Valley

The plan for today was a first proper hike. A transfer got us to Serra Malagueta and the
visitor center of the National Park in the morning. We had a bit time to check out the small exhibition here and a first encounter with cow tongue (one of the local plants) – before starting the hike down the Gomgom valley. An overall distance of about 10km was ahead of us, with 300m up and 1000m down.

We initially followed a trail along a ledge – in windy and cool conditions and through shrouded forest – until we made it down into the valley, passing abandoned farms and the Gomgom village. The hike concluded in Hortelão – for the first ponche of the trip (local cocktail from rum, and something fruity and sweet – in this case green tamarind – similar to poncha on Madeira).

Hiking to Cidade Velha – Welcome to Cabo Verde

My travel year 2025 started with an organized hiking trip on the Cabo Verde islands. Arrival was late at night after one of tightest flights ever (on Torture Air Portugal via Lisbon); we made it to the hotel in the outskirts of Praia around 2am.

A short night later it was time for a bit of orientation, getting used to the local currency and a first short hike. By bus we got to Maria Parda for our 4km walk down to Cidade Velha. The hike got us walking through a fertile valley, full of fruit trees and even a baobab – a perfect first introduction to the archipelago’s flora.

After we made it into town, we had a quick visit of the church of our Lady of the Rosary – and a first introduction to the city’s sad history – as one of the main transfer sites in the slave trade between Africa and the Americas in the 16th and 17th century. From the church we made our way through the old town and on to the former slave market and Pelourhino square (complete with a pillory from the early 16th century used for public punishment of rebellious slaves). The city has been a UNESCO world heritage site since 2009.

It was now back onto the bus for the trip into the mountains to our next hotel at Rui Vaz – at ~820m above sea-level much cooler.