Category Archives: _Arctic_

Polar Bears

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On return to the ship the hunger was back and it was time for a late second breakfast. That was followed by a lecture by our ice master, giving an overview of his life as an icebreaker captain in the Canadian coastguard.

Prior to lunch we were invited to join for the traditional Hanseatic Pølser Party on the pool deck. Danish-style hot dogs (pølser) were waiting for us, plus a nice selection of drinks (from vodka and sparkling wine to nice hot mulled wine). They even had a crew member in a polar bear costume.

The party came to a sudden end, when the bridge announced a “Polar Bear Alert”. At first I thought it was a joke and simply referring to the crew member dressed up as a polar bear … but when the announcement continued saying portside ahead, it was clear we were dealing with the real thing.

Everyone was on deck now, all with their full photo equipment. At first we were quiet far away, however the captain managed to maneuver the ship closer, so that we really had them just some meters away from the ship. We watched them, they watched us – though they were clearly less impressed of us than us of them.

 

80° 5′ N – stopped by the Ice

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We now wanted to get further North; from the ice charts, that had been presented the day before, we knew, there was a massive 168 km² ice floe waiting for us just a few miles up North in the Eureka Sound. So … it was not too far to go – however there was still the magic line of 80°N, which we still had to cross – and did just a bit after our turning back into the Eureka Sound.

The trip North did not last too long, at 80° 5’N we hit the ice floe; our captain already had decreased the ship’s speed and was now slowly getting as close as possible. We stayed here for a while – celebrating our position in awe – before turning around and heading South again.
We could have used a gap between the ice floe and Ellesmere Island to pass by and get further North – however had we done so, we would still be up there, with no way back until one of the next summers – so a no-brainer to turn around.

Eureka

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When I got outside this morning, we were just leaving the Eureka Sound and turning into the Slidre Fjord with just a few kilometers to go to our first stop of the day – Eureka.

Just a few hundred meters South of the 80°N line, Eureka is the world’s northernmost civil weather station. The station also serves for scientific and military research. It is connected to the world through its own airstrip and a yearly supply ship (at least in those years, when ice conditions allow for that).
Our arrival did coincide with this year’s supply ship, which had – accompanied by an ice breaker – made its arrival just a bit earlier with everyone busy to unload.

We stayed on Hanseatic for breakfast, while the expedition leads got ashore to talk with the station manager. Unfortunately (understandably though) we were not allowed ashore for a visit and tour of the station – the team was just to busy to unload the supplies. There were however enough volunteers available at the station to come to the ship and set up a small souvenir shop.

We nevertheless ended up getting ashore – – just a bit further into the fjord. From the landing point we enjoyed a short walk up a hill to – surprise, surprise – find ourselves not too far away from a musk ox. We also had some good views of the station. A view of the inside had to wait for another few days, until our expedition leader shared some of the photos, that he had taken during his visit.

Eureka Sound Sunset / Dusk

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By now we were high up in the North, well beyond 78°, close to 79°. Sunset was now after 23:00, and even then only dusk would take over. Eureka Sound impressions below – judge for yourself 😉

Through the Cardigan Strait

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After we had passed through the ice field at the entry of the Jones Sound, our journey was fairly uneventful. Hanseatic had continued its Western course and we were about to enter the Norwegian Bay.

The original plan had been to do so through the Hell Gate, a waterway between Ellesmere Island and North Kent Island. However with the exit of the Hell Gate locked by ice (as strange as it may sound), the bridge decided for the alternative routing through the Cardigan Strait – between North Kent Island and Devon Island.

Ice was our constant companion during that passage, though it did subside the further North and deeper into the Norwegian Bay we made it.

In a further lecture in the afternoon we got some background on the early exploration of this region by Norwegian explorers. The result can be seen even today, with the names of many of the islands, bays and fjords referring back Norway.

In the evening we had another pre-cap, where the captain and the expedition leader presented the plans for the next day … we were set to continue North through the Eureka Sound – with the Eureka weather station being our destination for the next morning.

Walker Arm Fjord

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After our polar bear encounter we continued deeper into the Walker Arm of the Sam Ford Fjord – with the destination being a glacier, that our expedition team had already visited in previous years.

We got to the spot and zodiacs were made ready just after lunch. My zodiac group was the first to go today – and I managed to catch the first zodiac and (for a change) take some pictures without too many of my fellow passengers.

Ashore a nice hike was waiting for us; from the landing point up the massive frontal moraine of a retreating glacier, through the sandy remains of its glacial lake (with the one or other stuck rubber boot) up to the actual glacier remains.

Our geologist – of course – was up front and providing good hints on where to walk and where not, pointing out things, providing explanations and – of course – making sure everyone was well.

In the evening – during cocktail hour – we had our first recap, to review our first shore landings, get more background on commonly asked questions – but also get to see footage and insights not everyone may have had the opportunity to (e.g. local flora, animal tracks, views from vantage points only few had made it to). These recaps really add to the expedition feeling and provide some interesting views back and more.
Lesson of the day: if you are ever offered polar bear liver, better decline that offer – otherwise you are bound to die of an overdose of vitamin A.