Into the Lowlands – to Dharamsala

Today we covered the 210km from Manali to Dharamsala, a trip that took us most day. During the drive we also could get a first proper feel of the monsoon weather with rain and washed-away streets.

Hiking the Shuru Traverse

We made it to Manali (at just 2000m above sea level) around midday and in time for a continental dinner. The afternoon was free, so I decided for a short hike through the nearby village of Shuru and on to the Friendship viewpoint – an overall 6.7km with 310m up and down.

Into India proper …

Today we were covering the final stretch along the Leh-Manali Highway. It took us about two hours to complete the remaining 70km from Keylong to Manali.

Initially we were following the Bhaga and Chandra rivers until we hit the 9km-long Atal Tunnel. There was agreement in the group that by going through the tunnel we had essentially left the Himalayan culture behind and made it (back) to India proper. Instead of Buddhist we were now going by Hindu temples; the dry and sunny mountain climate had changed to a sticky monsoon climate – and instead of Godfather we were now looking at Kingfisher beer.

Keylong Exploration

We had reached Keylong – at a mere 3080m above sea level – in the early afternoon and in time for lunch. A walk through Mall Street provided an overview of town.

In the afternoon we had the option for a trip to Kardang Monastery – the valley’s most important monastery, nicely sitting on the other side of the valley (about 1.3km away from the hotel as the crow flies – albeit a good 15km by car) with great views across the valley and beyond.

Back on the Highway – towards Keylong

Today we only had to cover the 100km to Keylong, resulting in a trip of about four hours and including the final high pass – Baralacha-La at 4,889 m or 16040 ft.

About midway we had a break at Deepak Taal, a small lake along the highway. There was the opportunity for a short walk around the lake, followed by a nice masala chai.

The (Mountain) Goats of Kyagar Tso

In the early evening we made it over to Kyagar Tso, the salt lake we had already passed on the way in. The idea was to get some insight into the life style of the nomadic people in the region and witness the vespertine arrival of the nomads’ sheep and goats.

As we got here early, there was a bit of time to kill; so, I made it up the hill behind the camp for a bit of workout (*breath*) and more great views of the lake and the surrounding area.

200m above Lake Tso Moriri

After lunch I decided to have another walk and made my way UP the mountain behind the village – first towards a small stupa on the slope and then up to the plateau – taking in the vista and the complete silence – and from here over to a viewpoint with great views of the lake and the surrounding mountains – at 170m above the village and 200m above the lake. Truly breathtaking …