Category Archives: _Arctic_

Uummannaq

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It took us two nights and a day to make the distance from Cape York to Uummannaq; obviously that time was spent at sea. Further lectures were on offer with our biologists in the lead (a lecture on whales and whaling, plus one on Arctic bird life); our ethnologist was providing more insights into Inuit culture. In the evening we had yet another recap / precap session … looking back to Northern Greenland and preparing us for the shore landings now further South. The hotel department did throw in a classic Bavarian Frühschoppen (check here for footage from my last trip); there was also a classical piano concert in the evening. When we got outside after the concert for a quick breath of fresh air, we suddenly realized slight, fading lines in the sky – Northern Lights. So overall a busy day full of activities – and surprises.

We turned into the iceberg-littered fjord of Uummannaq in the morning and got ready for the shore landing. Once ashore there was time to explore the little picturesque town with its little colorful houses, check out the supermarket, the church and the museum.

Around Cape York

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We were now leaving Northern Greenland and on our 800km journey South to Uummannaq. Before proceeding into the open sea and shortly after dinner, we did pass by Cape York – had a glimpse of the Peary Monument on top of Cape York and of course the icebergs around.

Parker Snow Bay

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We had another shore landing in the afternoon. Parker Snow Bay was inviting us for a visit to its glacier and a hop up onto the inland ice.

After our arrival at the beach, we had a walk of about 2.5km through the outwash plain ahead of us, before we made it to the glacier tongue. Our resident geologist was already in her element and providing explanations and background.
With glacier being in retreat, it was relatively safe to walk on it (at least in the lower areas and close to the sides); some of us used that opportunity and made it up the glacier – until we technically stood on the Greenland inland ice.

On the way back I could not stop myself and had to (purposely) do a bit of glacier sliding … and guess what … those waterproof trousers are not only handy for zodiac drives – but also when sliding down a glacier.

The way back also served as another hands-on lesson in geology with good permafrost examples and an introduction to the processes happening, when permafrost collapses.

On to Greenland …

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Life is full of surprises … today has been one of those days – with even the day’s program getting a mayor update.

Originally the plan had been to go for a final landing in Canada at the small settlement of Grise Fjord. This would have also been the place to drop our ice pilot for his journey back home. However it was once more the ice, that did not allow us to proceed with our plan … we simply could not make it to Grise Fjord.

A sensible decision was taken on the bridge and we did continue to Greenland … with a sudden day of relaxation at sea ahead of us now.

On Hanseatic relaxation does not necessarily translate to idling around … in fact the program was changed and lectures did fill the gap. So instead of a walk around Grise Fjord there was an opportunity to learn about the geology of Greenland (including a short trip into Earth’s past), seals and Inuit survival techniques. In the evening we had another recap / precap session, looking back at things done and seen – and preparing us for the upcoming shore landings in Northern Greenland.

Obviously Mark, our ice master, had to stay on board and continue to Greenland with us and an area he had not been before.

Below: final view of Canada … heading for Greenland …

Good-bye Canada!

Baad Fjord

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Several hours into our journey East in the Jones Sound, we had a further stop for another shore landing – and the Baad Fjord at the South of Ellesmere Island seemed to be the right spot for an afternoon stroll.

We found ourselves once again in fabulous surroundings with a nice table mountain backdrop, good views to the bay and a nice beach.
I had walked up the incline a bit to get a better view and continued walking up here in parallel to the beach, when suddenly I realized something white (small enough to not pose a threat) about ten meters in front of me. I froze – and realized there was a pair of arctic hare just in front of me. It stayed that way for a minute or two – until the two started to run away. They obviously had not seen humans before and were not sure on how to react or what to do … and ultimately decided to just run.

I also did run at a later point during this landing – – for a quick Arctic plunge.
I kind of had this on my agenda and it was to be expected, that this tour operator would not go for an official polar plunge (as for instance Quarks did on my first Antarctica cruise). So this landing was just the right time to go for it (Baad is close enough to Bad, which is “bath” in German). So I had already put my swimmers on and a towel in my pack, and after an extensive walk (long enough to be sure that the masses and the ship’s photographer are back on the ship) … just did it. It may have destroyed my hair-do, but was well worth it – plus … I now own a comb ????

Hell Gate

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Overnight we had left the Eureka Sound and made it into the Norwegian Bay – from here we had to pass back into the Jones Sound.

On the way in we had to go via the Cardigan Strait, as the Hell Gate had been locked by ice – now the situation was the other way round and we – while enjoying breakfast (and taking the occasional photo) – did pass through the <evil voice> Gate of Hell </evil voice> this time. The views certainly were spectacular and despite our fears not accompanied by swaths of sulfur, also no sudden appearances or disappearances.

We made it into the Jones Sound by the time the breakfast buffet was getting closed and were greeted by a bit of ice, which we got by easily. The journey continued East …